PA Motorcycle Permit Test: Motorcycle Maintenance

Pre-Ride Inspection Checklist

Do it.
Every ride.
Even a quick run for coffee.

PennDOT often leans on the T‑CLOCS approach because it’s easy to turn into multiple-choice questions. It’s also easy to do in real life, whether you’re squeezed onto a rowhome street in Philly or parked on a slight hill in Pittsburgh. T‑CLOCS stands for Tires and wheels, Controls, Lights and electrics, Oil and fluids, Chassis, and Stands. You’re not trying to rebuild the engine. You’re trying to notice obvious hazards.

Start with the stuff that fails most often and hurts the most when it does:

• Tires and wheels: check tread depth, cracks, bulges, and anything stuck in the rubber
• Brakes: squeeze the lever and press the pedal; they should feel firm, not spongy
• Lights and signals: test headlight (high/low), brake light, and turn signals
  This one trips people up.

Then take a quick “touch and look” lap around the bike. Throttle should roll smoothly and snap back when you let go. Cables and hoses shouldn’t look frayed, kinked, or wet. Mirrors should be set before you move, not while you’re rolling. Small habit. Big payoff.

Don’t ignore the ground under the bike either. A fresh wet spot or a strong fuel smell is not something you “watch later.” It’s usually a no-ride situation until you figure it out. No guessing.

If you want a simple way to remember the rest, think: fluids, frame, and what holds the bike up.

• Oil and other fluids: check levels and look for new leaks
• Chassis: scan for loose fasteners, odd wobble in parts, or damage
• Stands: side stand and center stand should move freely and retract properly
  This one trips people up.

Tire Pressure and Brake Maintenance

Tires matter most.
Seriously.

On the motorcycle permit test in PA, tire questions usually focus on inflation and tread. In real riding, tire pressure changes how the bike steers, how long it takes to stop, and how stable it feels—especially on Pennsylvania roads with potholes, bridge seams, and rough patches that show up around Scranton, Harrisburg, and just about everywhere after winter. Underinflation can make the bike feel heavy and vague in turns. Overinflation can reduce traction and feel skittish.

Here’s the rule you want locked in: use the manufacturer’s recommended PSI for your bike. That means the owner’s manual or the sticker/label on the motorcycle. The number on the tire sidewall is the tire’s maximum rating, not your everyday target.

A few habits that keep you out of trouble:

• Check tire pressure when the tires are cold, before you ride
• Use a real gauge, not a boot kick or hand squeeze
• Recheck when temperatures swing (like a cold morning near Erie)
  This one trips people up.

Also, don’t forget the simple visual checks: tread depth, uneven wear, cracks, and embedded debris. If you see cords, a big cut, or a bulge, you’re done for the day. Park it.

Now the other half of the safety equation: brakes. Brakes are life. The written exam may ask what worn brakes feel like, what to do if a lever feels soft, or how to spot trouble before it becomes failure. You don’t need to be a technician, but you do need to recognize when something isn’t right.

A basic brake check is quick:

• Pads: look for thin pad material or a wear indicator getting close
• Feel: lever/pedal should be firm, not sinking toward the grip or floor
• Sound: squealing can be a warning; grinding usually means damage is already happening
  This one trips people up.

If the brake lever suddenly pulls back farther than normal, or the pedal feels mushy, it can mean air in the lines, low fluid, or a leak. Any of those should move you from “ride carefully” to “don’t ride.” And if your stopping distance is changing, treat it like a real problem, not an inconvenience.

Recognizing Mechanical Problems

Listen to the bike.
Listen closely.

The permit exam often asks about warning signs: wobble, vibration, odd noises, or changes in handling. You’re not expected to diagnose every issue, but you are expected to recognize unsafe conditions and choose the safest action. On test questions, the safest option is usually the correct one.

If the bike starts pulling to one side, shaking more than usual, or vibrating in a new way, assume something changed: tire pressure, a tire problem, a loose part, or something in the drivetrain. A wobble at speed is not something you “power through.” Roll off the throttle smoothly, keep a steady grip (no death-grip overcorrections), and get to a safe spot as soon as you can without making a sudden move. In Philly that might mean waiting for a wider shoulder. In Pittsburgh it might mean avoiding a hard stop on a steep grade.

These red flags should grab your attention fast:

• Fluid leaks (especially fuel or brake fluid) or a strong gasoline smell
• Smoke, a burning odor, or an electrical smell like hot plastic
• A sticky throttle, or controls that suddenly feel different than they did five minutes ago
  This one trips people up.

Electrical issues matter more than people think. If your headlight is dimming, lights are flickering, or turn signals behave strangely, it could be a charging or wiring problem. On the exam, lighting failures are treated as serious because other drivers depend on your signals and brake light to react correctly. At night, a bad headlight is an obvious no-go.

Know when to stop riding.
That’s the skill.

If your inspection fails on tires, brakes, or lights, the smart answer is usually the same: don’t ride until it’s fixed, or get the bike towed if needed. It’s not bravado. It’s judgment. Fix it first.